Saturday, December 29, 2012

Scandinavian Christmas

Liz was here the past week for the Christmas holiday.  In the beginning of December it started snowing and it seems to have continued ever since.  With a blanket of white covering the streets and trees and lights reflecting on the water once night falls, which nowadays happens at 3pm, Christmas is certainly in the air.  Liz and I spent the week strolling the streets of Gamla Stan, visiting the elk and reindeer at Skansen, feasting on julbord (traditional Christmas feast), and going out with friends.

 Gamla Stan on Christmas Eve
   Skansen on Christmas Day

Photos from the rent's visit

 The snowy streets of Gamla Stan
Ice bar at the Nordic Sea Hotel

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Magical Amsterdam

Last weekend a group of 8 of us flew to Amsterdam.  We flew in from Stockholm, Estonia, and Germany.  We all arrived on Friday night and set out to tour the lighted streets of the city.  And what a beautiful city it is.  Canals flow through the streets, making all of the thin and tall homes water front.  The streets are littered with coffee shops - Some offering lattes, pastries, and dutch chatter.  Others offering menus of marijuana, magical shrooms, and lots of laughter.  We strolled through the red light district, which I found to be especially disturbing.  Many aspects of this city are uncomfortable.  However, there is a true beauty in Amsterdam.  On Sunday night after the sun went down, groups of children, each with a handmade lantern, went from door to door singing Dutch songs.  The owner of the home would answer the door with a tray of chocolates - one for each child.  We felt as though we were in a movie set.  And just as we thought the children and lanterns couldn't make this night any more magical, we stumbled upon a cornerside restaurant covered in twinkling white lights.  Once inside we felt as though we were in a nice, cozy, living room.  The waitress brought us a bottle of wine and a wooden board portraying a spread of select cheeses.  We were wrapped up in the aura of the evening and lost all track of time, causing us to barely make our flight back to Stockholm.  But the memories remain of that mystical city.  

Monday, October 29, 2012

Fancy a ferry to Tallinn?

I have yet another visitor in Stockholm - Corinne.  I am so fortunate to have such wonderful family and friends that come to visit!  This weekend a large group of us (7) took a ferry to Tallinn.  We boarded the ferry on Saturday afternoon.  Everyone kept referring to the boat as a ferry, but it was actually a large cruise ship - filled with restaurants, cheesy night clubs, and discotheques.  After we set sail, we bought cheap alcohol (alcohol on the ship is much cheaper than in Stockholm, which isn't saying too much because alcohol is so expensive in Sweden!), cheeses, meats, and breads and had a dinner party in our room.  Afterwards we set out for a night of dancing, hopping from club to club.

The next morning at 10am we arrived in Tallinn.  The ground was covered with snow, but the sky was clear, and the sun was shining.  We spent our 7 hours at port walking the fairytale like streets - sipping hot wine, feasting on mushroom and brie filled pancakes, and dipping in and out of the many shops.  Before getting back on the ship we took an Estonian jellyfish shot, bought some black bread, and boarded yet again.  We were all very tired so we had a proper sit down dinner on the ship.  Then we retreated to our room and my Estonian and Lithuanian friends told stories of their childhood in the Soviet Union - 3 hour lines to buy food, goods such as bananas, sugar, and blue jeans were considered delicacies, communist parades, storing sacks of potatoes in the basement - Helen told a story of her dad going to Finland for business and he brought back a barbie for she and her sister.  They were the only girls in school to have barbies and they were so excited to have this rare toy!

We then retreated to our beds and had a peaceful, very long, night's sleep.




Copenhagen

Powers came to visit Scandinavia!  We took a weekend trip down to Copenhagen while he was here.  The train ride was about 5 1/2 hours and showed us southern Sweden's countryside.  It was a rainy weekend in Copenhagen.  We spent the weekend walking the historic streets along the canals, and learning about Denmark's history.  Whenever the cold and rain became too much to handle, we'd dip into a waterside pub and have a beer... soothes any chill.


Thursday, September 20, 2012

Even the bugs and birds are different

There's something very interesting that I've noticed since being here.  There are no screens on any window.  The windows simply open to the outside and allow for the breeze and whatever else to drift in.  In the U.S., homes would quickly become infested with flies, mosquitoes, etc.  However, this situation does not pose a problem here.  The animals prefer to be outside, so while a small gnat may fly indoors, it simply pokes around for a minute or two and then exits back through the window.  Yesterday at work, a bird flew into the office.  No one seemed to mind.  So I watched.  The bird's friend soon followed inside.  They flew around the office, and then flew back outside once they were finished exploring.  Simply intriguing.

Monday, September 17, 2012

Kayaking in the Baltic

It was time to journey out of the city into the country side.  Ten of us boarded a bus, then another bus, and then one more bus, which led us 2 hours north of Stockholm.  Our final destination was a very small town, which almost reminded me of upstate NY.  Except for the fact that all of the signs were in different languages, of course.  We walked to the harbor and rented kayaks.  After gearing up and organizing 10 people, we lowered our kayaks into the water and set out for a journey in the Baltic.  The air was crisp and the sun was warm.  When we began, I was wearing a fleece.  Not even 20 minutes in, I shed down to my t-shirt.  We kayaked through deserted islands, watching birds fly through the sky, and jelly fish float beneath us.  We pulled ashore onto a rocky island where we ate sandwiches and cookies, and bathed in the sun.  After our break, we continued on back to our starting point.  It was a wonderful 4 hour paddle.  Once back at shore, we sat in the sun outside of the Graddo Bryggcafe.  It was yet again time to board the bus(es) back to Stockholm.

  

Island exploring

I've been delinquent in my blogging... what can I say? It's been a busy start to the semester. Outside of school and work, I've still managed to have plenty of fun.  The theme of the past couple of weeks seems to have been 'exploring the Archipelago'. 

Last weekend, Roos and I took a ferry to Vaxholm (an island in the Archipelago).  It was a beautiful, sunny day, and only light jackets were in order.  We met in the city center and hopped the 1.5 hour ferry to Vaxholm.  We spent the entire boat ride outside, watching the gorgeous water side homes and country side go by.  Once we reached the island, we took a very short ferry ride to Vaxholm Fortress.  As Stockholm is a port city, this fortress was built near the entrance to the Archipelago in the 1500's to provide security.  The fort is now open for touring.  There were hardly any other people there, making touring the fort more mystical.

Back on the main Vaxholm island, we walked the streets and then found a Swedish restaurant on the water.  We sat outside and feasted on salmon, shrimp salad, and beer.  Life could not be any better!  After our late lunch, we returned to Stockholm via ferry.  What a great 'Sunday outing'!

 Vaxholm Fortress
View of Vaxholm from the top of the Fort
        

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

My 1st Swedish cray fish party!

I was fortunate enough to be invited to a cray fish party.  With real Swedes.  In Sweden.  What an experience.

I offered to help prep for the party and was sent to the store to buy cray fish table cloths, cray fish party hats, cray fish napkins, and an assortment of other cray fish decorations.  That is when I realized just how popular cray fish parties are here... when they mass produce these products with cray fish print and sell them in the grocery store.  After prepping, Ewa and I arrived at Andre's apartment and started setting up the table with the goods.  An extremely large bowl over filling with cray fish, cheese, salad, bread, beer, akvavit, akvavit, akvavit, akvavit....

Once everyone arrived we sat down for the meal.  I was told meals last for hours in Sweden, and I was about to find out why.  Next to my plate was a song book filled with traditional Swedish songs.  We began eating the juicy, flavorful cray fish when all of our shot glasses were filled with the first round of akvavit.  It was time for song #1.  We all sang the first song together (it was in Swedish so mostly gibberish was coming out of my mouth) and ended the tune with "Sköl" and a shot of akvavit.  Holidays in Sweden are always filled with food and singing.  I remember this from midsommar.  It allows the families to spend a lot of time at the dinner table together, telling stories and laughing.  The more akvavit that is consumed, the more stories that come about.  Well, many songs, much food, and even more akvavit later it was time for the evening to come to a close.


    

Thursday, August 30, 2012

A sea of Europeans

After a brief stint back in the US I am back in Stockholm.  It is amazing that while I was only away for a few weeks, the city feels completely different.  You can feel autumn in the air, blowing through the trees.  I started orientation this week for the fall semester.  For the first time in my life, I am a minority.  It has been 3 days and I have yet to meet another American.  This pleases me as I enjoy being around so many people from different cultures.  The part of this that is a little discerning is the view most cultures seem to have of Americans.  Just a brief overview: McDonalds, McDonalds, stupid, McDonalds.  I'm glad I can represent our country and hopefully change their perception.  Although when introducing myself, many say, "Taylor, like Taylor Swift. How American!"  So not only am I learning about so many other cultures, but I am learning more about myself.  I am greatly looking forward to the coming months when I can frequently socialize with a group of people consisting of Estonians, Germans, Dutch, French, Italians, Indians, Lithuanians, and so on and so forth.

More to come from "the American".    

Monday, July 2, 2012

Another day out on the zip zip

We went out on the boat again yesterday.  The group included 3 people from Sweden, 1 girl from Norway, 1 guy from England, and 2 Americans.  It was round 2 of the AF Race so the larger sail boats now had a turn to set sail.  They're such elegant boats.  The clean lines and colors give them a 'toy like' look.

After riding around for a while, some in our group were brave enough to venture into the water and wake board.  The water is SO cold here and doesn't start to warm up (relatively speaking) until August. All the same, it was another great day on the water in Stockholm.



Saturday, June 30, 2012

From Dropkick Murphy's to the AF Race

This week has been a fantastic one.

On Tuesday night, a group of us went to the amusement park, which is located right on the ocean in downtown Stockholm.  The lights from the rides reflect on the water and it certainly has a oceanside boardwalk feel.  There is a large stage in the middle of the park where they host various artists for a concert series during the summer months.  This particular night, Dropkick Murphy's was performing.  It was very entertaining to be in Stockholm and see a Boston band.  The performance and crowd was full of energy.  Ewa, Joakim, and I went on a roller coaster (the supposedly scariest one) during the show, which provided for an excellent view of the stage and crowd.  The ride certainly amped up our energy level for the rest of the evening.  I bought a season pass to the park so I'm looking forward to some more concerts.  

The following night, we gathered at Krukan (a pub near Zinkensdamn) to watch Germany vs. Italy.  The bar was packed and the game was very entertaining.  The games are now getting down to the wire and the Italians will make it through, for now...

Yesterday was the first launch of the AF Race!  It is a 3 day sailing race that starts in Stockholm, near Skeppsholmen (right by my office).  For the past several days, various vendors have been setting up tents for the race along the water.  Everything from Helly Hanson gear to fancy dining. They also built several docks just for this event.  The sail boats have lined up one by one on the docks over the past days.  They are simply beautiful.  The first launch started yesterday at 10:30am.  Andre and I took his boat out around 2:30pm and followed the sailing course.  We rode for miles by the various clusters of sailboats.  The weather was perfect (high 60's, sunny, and breezy) so the sun glistened on the water and the sails were full.  The boats looked so elegant on the water.  One of his friends is a chef aboard one of the boats so we eventually found them and rode on by to say hi.  We rode by the ~100 boats, past Vaxholm, and onto Sandhamn.  It is a little island in the Archipelago that houses a few stores and some summer homes.  We pulled up to the dock and parked.  There was a live band playing American music and a crowd that had been boating and drinking all day.  They were having the time of their lives.  We walked around the island and allowed the sail boats to make it out to the ocean.  We then rode back by all of the clusters of boats to watch them sail in the open waters.  Once it started to get a little chilly, we headed back towards Stockholm.  Round 2 of the sailing event is today! And the sun is shining!  

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Schnitzel

                                         Schnitzel from Moldau

Midsommar!

Midsommar (summer solstice) was this weekend.  Technically, summer solstice is June 21st, but in the Nordic region it takes place on the closest Saturday and is celebrated on Friday...another opportunity to take a day off of work.  Friday morning we hopped on a boat near Skeppsholmen and rode the 1.5 hours out to Grinda, which is a small island in the Archipelago.  The island mainly consists of land owned by the crown and some summer cottages.  The sky was clear blue and the temps were in the high 60's... perfect midsommar weather!  Once we arrived at Grinda, we all walked down a path to a large field.  In the field was a large maypole.  Dancing around a maypole is a traditional midsommar activity.  We laid out a large blanket and set up our midsommar feast - bread, cheeses, smoked salmon, different types of herring, olives, potatoes with dill and sour cream, strawberries, Swedish pastries, and lots of wine and schnapps.  One word: delicous.  We feasted, smoked hookahs, and played kubb.  Ewa and I gathered branches and flowers and made our midsommer wreaths to wear. 

Then came time to dance around the maypole.  Everyone (adults and children) stood in a circle around the pole.  In the center of the circle was a musician playing traditional midsommar music while we danced.  Everyone was laughing and the sun was shining and I felt as though I was in another time.  It was incredible.  After the dancing was over we packed up our things and walked down to some rocks on the water.  We laid out on rocks and set up our grill.  We grilled steaks and sausages and watched the boats go by...until it was time to take the boat back to Stockholm.

Sun kissed and full from our feast, it was a perfect Swedish day.

                                         The boat ride to Grinda

                                          Midsommar feast

                                         Dancing around the maypole

Monday, June 18, 2012

Being one with the world is...

Sitting in a room full of Swedes while playing against England in football. 

Friday night a group of us went on a search for a pub in which to watch Sweden vs. England.  Bar after bar was packed.  We finally found a large mall center/bar with chair cushions all over the floor, a movie theater sized screen, and over a hundred Swedes eager for the game.  With the beer flowing and endless cheering, it was a very close game.  But unfortunately England won 3-2.  Despite this, the game was awesome.

The energy, the excited crowd, and the country pride was so great.  Being a part of that put a smile on my face. 


Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Boats and Euro games!

The days continue to whiz by...

On Saturday, Andre took me and a friend of his out on his boat.  We rode down the canal by our office along grassy running paths and families of ducks.  We watched a crew race and eventually reached open waters. The water in Stockholm is brackish (mixture of salt and fresh water). Boating away from downtown, we reached secluded islands housing an old church and beautiful country homes.  Similar to Alaska, many people live in homes on islands where their only exit from the island is via boat.  It is a Swedish dream to own an island... sounds nice.

The next day, Nikki, her friend from The Netherlands, Marieke, and I went to the Museum of Modern Art.  It is located right next to my internship, so I definitely wanted to visit.  Similar to my thoughts about most Modern Art museums I've visited, I thought it was interesting, yet pretty weird.  I've noticed the 'weirdness' is usually amped up in Europe.  A TV screen showing a girl painting the floor with her hair, pig bodies with human heads cut open to expose internal organs, a tank of bubbling mud, need I go on?  My favorite part was upon our exit of the museum (museet).  We each wrote a wish on a note card and hung our wishes from a wish tree.  It was beautiful with the wish'full' branches blowing in the breeze.

Last night, Ewa, Eric, and I went to an outdoor bootcamp.  The direction was entirely in Swedish.  It had just rained and many of the exercises took place on the ground in fields.  So after being covered in mosquito bites and dirt, we went to a pizzeria to drink beer and watch Poland vs. Russia.  Ewa is from Poland so we were excited when the game ended with a score of 1-1 (everyone expected Poland to lose). The Euro games are so popular here its as if each game is the equivalent of the Super Bowl.  What an exciting place to be during this time!

                                                             The Wish Tree

        

Friday, June 8, 2012

National Day of Sweden!

Wednesday was the National Day of Sweden.  It is a holiday on which everyone takes off from work and celebrates their country.  However, the celebrations begin Tuesday night since there is no work the next day.  I joined Ewa and a group of her friends.  We went bowling and everyone was anxious to see if it was like American bowling... it is. They then took me to the "hipster" part of town.  Back in the day this section of town was poverty stricken and overpopulated. It is now booming and filled with young, hip Swedes. We went to a bar, Carmen, which they described as an American dive bar.  I knew exactly what they were talking about when we entered. The place had a lot of character, a lot of people, and a lot of American music. Afterwards the group retreated to one of the guy's apartment where we drank wine, listened to music, and had a fire in the pot belly stove (guess who the instigator of that was?)  Next thing I knew, I glanced out the window to daylight.  It was 3am and already getting light outside.  We decided to call it a night, so I walked back to my apartment around 4am in broad daylight.  Definitely a weird feeling.   

I awoke the next morning to National Day of Sweden! I peeled myself out of bed and took the train downtown to the Royal Palace.  They had free entry, which means everyone and their mother was there to tour the Palace and grounds. It was a beautiful day outside so after the tour I walked to a nearby park to take a nap and wait for the Royal procession leaving the Palace.  At 17:55 everyone lined up on the sidewalk and horseback solders marched by followed by a carriage holding the Royal family - the King, Queen, Prince, and two Princesses. So exciting!

Today I had to walk to another part of town for a meeting.  The weather is beautiful and Stockholm is alive with people and sun. There were several large truckloads of teenagers driving throughout the city, blasting music, screaming, dancing, and spraying beer everywhere. When I got back to the office I asked what that was all about.  Today all of the seniors graduate from high school.  Ah, but of course.  The legal drinking age is 18.
 
                                                             The Royal Palace

                            Bagpipers playing on the sidewalk in honor of the National Day

Sunday, June 3, 2012

Vasamuseet

As mentioned before I visited the Vasa Museum today.  I took the train to Stockholm Center and then strolled through the outdoor markets and along the water to an island located just east of where I work.  There was a long line to enter the museum and once I was inside I understood why.  The ship was so beautiful!  It first sailed in the 1600's, but was built improperly so quickly sank.  It sat at the bottom of the harbor in Stockholm for over 300 years before being brought back to life.

Once I left the museum I started my walk back to the train station.  The clouds were darkening so I went inside a cafe with all glass walls.  I got a glass of wine and a pear and pecan tart with creme.  As I enjoyed the tart and wine and read 'Outlander' (a Scottish romance novel), the rain poured down outside.  It was the perfect afternoon. 


                                                                  The Vasa

                                Pear and pecan tart... recipe for the perfect afternoon!

And then the rain came...

It's Sunday morning and it has been cool and rainy all weekend.  Reminds me of summer in Ketchikan... My first week of work is over already.  It was a wonderful first week filled with water side tennis games, a bike ride to an Austrian restaurant where we feasted on schnitzel, and intimate dinners with locals. 

When I first arrived, everything seemed so foreign and impossible to complete.  How to understand the signs in the train station?  How to shop for items at the Coop (small grocery store) when all of the labels are in Swedish?  How to meet new people?  Its amazing how much one is able to learn and accomplish in just one week.  I feel pretty comfortable here now and have learned how to navigate the city.  I even fixed my first Swedish 'blown fuse' yesterday (result of my American blowdryer)!  Fuse boxes here are very different from those in the U.S. and of course all of the directions are in Swedish.  My roommate and I also did laundry yesterday (fixing fuses and doing laundry was proof of the windy and rainy weather outside).  Learning to work their foreign washing machines and fancy dryers was yet another feat.  Side note: they have a wonderful clothes drying system.  It is a large box with racks on the inside for which to hang your clothes.  Warm air is then forcefully blown through the box, drying your clothes quickly, and minimizing damage (brought on by traditional drying machines).

Today is a little less rainy, so I'm going to grab an espresso and venture off to the Vasamuseet (Vasa Museum).  This museum houses an old ship that sunk in the 1600's and was salvaged in the 1960's.  It is very famous and is the most visited museum in Sweden.  One of the owners of my company, Anders, grandmother's brother is the one who found and salvaged the Vasa.  Pretty cool.

Below I included a photo of the large colorful yard art located across the street from my work. It's magical!



  

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Coffee and lilacs

Yesterday was the first day of my internship.  I walked over the bridge to Skepps-Holmen island to my office.  It is located in an old beautiful home.  It is bright and sunny with hardwood floors and big windows that open up to gardens (none of the windows have screens, because there are no bugs).  I met Andre and Anders (the co founders of Sustainable Technologies Fund).  We walked to a nearby restaurant and sat out on the patio.  We feasted on delicious breads, herring, and light beer.  Light beer in Sweden does not mean it is light in calories.  They have beer with different levels of alcohol in case you want to drink then work, drink then drive, etc., etc.  We then had a meeting about my summer projects.  After work I moved into my new apartment and I'm sort of unpacked. 

Today was another day at the office.  I arrived at 8:45 and had to turn off the alarm as no one was there yet (even from the company that works downstairs).  People started trickling in around 9... at which point we made coffee.  They have a fancy espresso/cappuccino/coffee machine so we can ensure our caffeine intake.  Anders arrived to the office with a bunch of lilacs.  They bloom for only 2 weeks each year in Sweden.  But they are in full bloom now and have engulfed the city with their sweet smell.  He put the lilacs in a vase on my desk for "Swedish inspiration".  I definitely found inspiration in them.  Ewa and I had a lunch meeting in downtown Stockholm so we rented biked on Skepps-Holmen and biked to the meeting.  It was great! Many people bike throughout the city and there are bike kiosks located all over.  After the meeting we had coffee yet again.  Everyone worked for the afternoon and then headed home.  Tomorrow we're all playing tennis after work.  There are tennis courts located near our office right on the water.  This should be interesting...

My walk to work yesterday...



Sunday, May 27, 2012

Touring the islands

Today was another beautiful day in the city...even warmer than yesterday.  After a leisurely morning I stepped outside of my hotel and a parade of horseback soldiers playing instruments marched by.  This is the third time I have seen this group march through the city.  I continued on to meet Anna (the exchange student that spent last semester at UMass) on the steps of the Stockholm Concert Hall, the "Konserthuset".  The building overlooks a busy marketplace that is filled with everything from fresh fruit to local artwork to old dolls missing clothes.  Anna and I went for fika (coffee and pastries with friends) and then she took me on a guided tour of the city.  We walked from island to island and saw magnificent views.  This beautiful weather has brought everyone in Stockholm outside.  People are strolling the streets, lounging in parks, kayaking through the harbors, and boating.

We then went to the train station and I caught the train to Solna (my home come tomorrow).  I walked the one block from the station to my apartment building and met one of my new roommates, Susanna.  The apartment is very sunny and bright!  I'm excited to unpack and settle in.  Even though the apartment is only about one block from the station I managed to take 45 minutes finding my way back there.  The signs are in Swedish and I ended up following the wrong signs...woops.  Won't make that mistake again.  Once I found my way back to the city center I dined at a little cafe by the Stockholm Center Station.  After a stroll back to my hotel, I am ready for bed.  Tomorrow is the first day of my internship.  I'm supposed to report there at 12:30 so we can go to lunch and then have a meeting about my summer projects!
 
             
                                         View from Gamla Stan Island

Saturday, May 26, 2012

A City of Color


Where do I begin... I love Stockholm.  I arrived early this morning on an uneventful flight (the best kind of flight to have) and took the train to the city center.  I then lugged my 80 lbs worth of bags over half a mile to my hotel.  With some good exercise and fresh air I was feeling good.  When checking in well before check in time at the hotel, the concierge said that unfortunately the only room available early was carpeted.  Most Americans wouldn't expect different, so I welcomed the opportunity for an immediate warm shower with open arms.  I then walked the couple blocks to the water front and bought a ticket for a boat tour of the city.  Stockholm is so rich in color.  Colorful flowers in the parks, colorful flags lining the waterfront, colorful languages every where I turn... Now I understand why people say this is the most beautiful city in all of Europe.  The boat tour was very enlightening and the weather could not have been more perfect.  Although I've been told not to get used to the warm sun and clear skies.  After the tour I took a quick nap back in my room (really a continuation of the nap I started on the boat tour). 

The sun was still shining so I decided to go for a walk to the island on which my internship is located.  Stockholm is a series of islands connected by bridges, so walking from island to island is easy to do.  STF (my internship) is located right next to an art museum.  The street is lined with large floral trees that hang to the ground.  The yard across from the buildings is filled with big colorful art pieces.  It feels as though I'm in an Alice in Wonderland set.  Magical.  The water is lined with wooden benches so I rested on one and watched the water and people go by.  Anthony Bourdain wasn't kidding when he said Sweden was a sea of blondes with perfect bone structure.  Holy cow, I have never seen so many extremely good looking people in one location before.

After relaxing by the water, I strolled down the street to a cafe, called Riche.  It was light and airy with lots of light and silver dream catchers hanging from the ceiling.  I ordered wine, cured salmon, and potatoes in a dill cream sauce.  Yum.  While eating, I wrote in my journal and met the people that worked there.  They were all extremely nice.  The waiter told me that alcohol is very expensive at restaurants.  I understood exactly what he meant when my bill came.  Luckily, the owner, named Anders, (who looks like Mick Jagger) introduced himself to me and kept giving me wine 'on the house'. 

After one day here I am only hungry for more...